Here it is you guys, my 6 month update on the Fluid Film. I have used this product for a few years now. Previously, I’d spray mixtures of motor oil under my vehicles using an old paint gun, but after reading about the possible acidity of some oil I decided to change. For the last couple years I’ve applied the Fluid Film by an aerosol can, but realized using an undercoating gun and bulk Fluid Film would be cheaper (and EASIER!). Fluid Film costs around $10-13 per can (USD) and it usually takes at least 3-4 cans to get a good coating under my 4Runner. You could probably stretch 2 cans, but the coating would be thin. So finally, I bought an undercoating gun this year for $28 from Amazon and a gallon of Fluid Film which cost ~$35. It took 3 quarts for the application, so I still had 25% of the can left. The undercoating gun made it much easier and much more time efficient. I think I’ll stick with this application process for now. The vehicle is my 2017 4Runner TRD Pro that I bought brand new (ordered in late 2016), and I now just passed 40,000 miles. It’s been through 3 horrible winters, with the most recent extremely wet and salty. Unfortunately, where I live salt is used extremely heavily…. I’m talking white roads all winter. Anyway, ideally you should apply another coating of Fluid Film in the late winter/early spring (which I usually do), but this year I wanted to see how truly durable this stuff is. The results speak for themselves. Anyway, thanks for watching!

source: https://otrasnoviaxeiro.com/

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Cars And Zebras November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

What do you guys think about Fluid Film? Definitely worth the money.

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Tony Jung November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

RP-342 seems to be better at staying on the applied surface

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bluenetmarketing November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Interesting music and entertaining pictures. How does fluid film do on guitar strings?

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Bondo November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I'm a former Fluid Film user. I live in New Hampshire where salt and sand is used heavily in winter. At first I was like wow, Fluid Film is great stuff. But as time went on, my undercarriage became a sooty, sandy, greasy mess. So bad I couldn't find the bolts. The truck was unpleasant to work on. And then came the time when my floor jack slipped off the frame. Slipped on oil. Fortunately I was backed up with stands. So between the mess and the close call I was looking for a cleaner, method. I found it. The same stuff the military used in WWII to protect weapons and vehicles from the salt and rust. RP-342 cosmoline. It's just amazing. Sprays directly onto naked rust, creeps in and starves out oxygen and moisture. Creates a waterproof waxy barrier that's very durable. Slightly tacky and creeps in summer. Hard in the winter. Which is exactly what you want. Wet oil means your undercarraige is a mess by spring. And best of all, you're not constantly reapplying. A few coats and you're good for years. I recommend you try this if you want protection without the mess.

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Tiger Powers November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Looks pretty good – nice review. Just went with Fertan rust converter + Fertan 240 UBS + Fertan hollow wax on my 2017 Tacoma. The previous owner hasn´t dun anything to it, drove it through a whole Winter here in Germany tho so I had todo a bit of prework removing light surface rust (Fertan rustconverter). After this was dun I did let it sit for 1-2 days so that the stuff can do its work. Afterwards I coated the whole Underbody with the Fertan 240 Wax and another day later all the hollow parts with the Fertan hollow wax.
All spraytubes due to not having a compressor.

Used about 3x 250ml Rustconverter, 12 Spraycans of the Hollow Wax + 8 Cans of the 240. Really hoping this will last pretty good and withstand our harsh, especially salty winters here in Southern Germany xD. Wanna keep this truck as long as possible – just love it <3.
Thought of going with Fluid Film too the fact it would stick all the time made me do some more research.
The Wax Surface seems not as sticky + the Hollow wax does creep to for a while but then won´t start dripping. It´s supposed to seal arising cracks in the wax cover by itself due to temperature changes.

So all in all this should be good for approximately 4-5 Years they say. I´ll keep a close eye on it and see how it goes.
Spent about ~200 bucks in material + …yeah a few hours xD tho now I know what´s done & how it´s done.
If I would have went with a professional shop they charge you ~ 700-2500€ and still can´t guarantee so I rather chose to try this myself.
Back to you vid, keep up the great work and I hope your Yota will stay strong!
Cheers from Germany

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Sting November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I tried one of those guns you have and it didn’t do well so I ordered the pro kit from kellsportsproducts. Very happy with results after 2 years with Fluid Film.

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Steven Mendez November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Just use chainsaw oil. Works great

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ray poh November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

how do you apply the fluid film below your car? do you have to use a hoist?Thanks

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David Campbell November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I live in Ottawa Canada. I get my car Krown'd every year. ( i swear they use fluid Film as their rust inhibitor) I use it on my 2004 F150 and its solid as the day it came out of the show room. Fluid Film for fighting rust is great stuff!

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James Hurt November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

i live in Erie pa so we got it bad I cut mine with about a third by volume with new engine oil. Oil WILL NOT wash away.

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TheGomezIndustries November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Can you do comparison with LPS 3? I’ve heard it’s the best and most airlines use it to protect their multi-million dollar airplanes.

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Pewy McPewerson November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I use to work for a municipality and after loading our trucks up with salt we would pull around to another tank and spray calcium chloride on top. Salts good to about 20 but CC will work to 0. It's also very corrosive. My tundra just got a fresh coating of fluid film last week. 👍🇺🇸🍻

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gittyupalice96 November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Just gonna throw this out there guys… Because I see its a re-occurring theme in all these under carriage protection videos, its that the rear axle on trucks/suv's and muscle cars (i.e. older camaros and mustangs) they are sooooo god dam thick it doesn't matter. They can sit and rust for 50 years and still go down the road fine. stop wasting your materials on that. same with the (SOLID, not stamped steel) So the solid cast iron control arms, do not need to be coated either its just a waste and is in a spot that will wash off anyway with driving.

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stewart bruce November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

For those looking to save some money, and the satisfaction making their own brew I suggest watching the following video: How to make an undercoating of oil called Groil. Basically a mixture of motor oil ,grease and boiled linseed oil. Yes you can use waste oil and perhaps you have some grease and boiled linseed oil in your garage. Good luck and happy undercoating, and greetings from New Rochelle N.Y.

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Dylan Warner November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I repair equipment for my neighbor (tree guy), he has a 01 excursion with 305k on it, we're in the finger lakes where they use salt when it gets cold even if there's no ice or snow.He uses krown Oi͏l similar to fluid film, it's a vile oily mess but there's 0 rust under there and takes it to the car wash weekly in the winter and the shit doesn't come off so that's another option if you can find it or an truck accessory place that applies it usually around $120 here

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Knobbies Shreaded November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Did you spray inside the frame rails? My aluminum F-150 has many steel parts protected with FF.

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ZappaZGaming November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I coated my 2010 Silverado fall of 2018 as well and what I have found after the winter is that after applying the fluid film I should've not sprayed my undercarriage as much and just allowed the film to do the work as you said. I am working on my second year of it and I definitely learned something useful there!

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Raven Feather November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Cosmoline on areas where fluid film would be washed off and fluid film the? rest

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Mario Brothers November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Nice 4Runner, great video! The reason fluid film is gone on the bottom exposed metal is because the deep snow rubbed it off.

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Alex N November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I just used Fluid Film and a Cosmoline based solution. I would not go through the winter without a wash, so fluid film on the bottom is a non-started, as it is supposed to wash with just water (and does). Cosmoline though is supposed to stay. Also Cosmoline (in an air spray can) went on better, more uniform.
I used Fluid Film for internal spaces, since it's supposed to be penetrating. Not actually sure how penetrating it is – from WD40 experience I expected a lot more movement than I got. We'll see in a year.

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David November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Been using it for many years and no plans to change it. Fluidfilm's greatest benefit is when used to protect interior cavities of the body and frame. Rattle can works best for these spots. Because it stays liquid, it will migrate over time to the spots that were not directly sprayed.

Remember, the worst rust will occur from the inside out, so get those hidden pockets first, then hit the exposed areas.

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Jim Myers November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

got some rust coming through on the floorboards shot. stuff is probably good for a rig with clean new metal but applying it to an older vehicle with even slight surface rust, well, it's just not gonna work.

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Building Memories November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

do you think this helps slow down the frame from rust, when it already has some surface rust on it?

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Eric Himes November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

👍
I use the spray kit with 360 tip; the long thin 360 extension for the spray can is a must for small cavities in the hood, etc. or where the spray gun wand won’t fit.

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Jasnik Parmar November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Fluid Film is amazing – are you in Michigan Overlanding on fb? Either way – see you on the trails!

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William Hadley November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I suggest you do a comparison of Fluid Film and LPS3.

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Aaron Gerlach November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Wondering if driving through the tall grass at the end of the video wipes away the coating? Like when you wiped away with your finger?

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Hutchy45445 November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I like Fluid Film, but prefer POR-15 for the undercarriage, hands down. That would withstand the erosion, on the areas that were facing forward. To reapply on a yearly basis, IMO, is way too expensive and time consuming.

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Harbinger November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Basically: Use any form of rust prevention in the form of sprays like this one or oil sprays and it'll help protect. Let's face it, rust will be inevitable but at least if you do preventative protection then it will just end up being surface rust that can be cleaned up and fixed with little to no money.

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Douglas Wainwright November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I'm trying wool wax this winter, curious to see how this holds up vs fluid film.

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mini mycologist November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Like the tonton star wars bit

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Christine Woodruff November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

10 spray cans of fluid film: 100 bucks…….new 4×4 pickup: $64000 bucks.

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delacruztaylor November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

What state are you in, Nebraska? Iowa here, applying on the 2019 in a couple weeks.

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SP392 November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I would now get it krowned over the fluid film as it has better rust inhibitors in it and basically layer the two of them on

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Harry Lime November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Bought myself a new ram 1500 hemi pick up. The week I brought it home, I spent five days using fluid film with the gallon can and the spray cans and the spray can attachment wand..
In Pennsylvania, they throw salt on my road by the ton, and I have no through traffic to carry the salt away, it’s just local traffic. I have salt on my road some years as late as May.
I’ve had my ram for two winters now. There is no rust under my truck.
I have Chrome bumpers and chrome factory mag wheels. I coat them by hand with fluid film a few days before the first snow, and I leave it on there till spring. You can’t even see it on the wheels or the bumper. This is great stuff. And it’s not dangerous to get on your skin like POR 15 is. I got POR 15 on my skin accidentally while I was trying to slow down the rust on my GMC Canyon which I did not rustproof because the owners manual said I would void the warranty if I rustproof the truck.. I had to go to two different doctors because I got that POR15 on my wrists where the gloves didn’t cover and my long sleeve shirt didn’t cover.
Not only is fluid film good for rustproofing, and harmless to your skin, the can said it’s good for leather, so I put it on my Redwing workboots, and a few of my belts that were drying out from my sweat,, made the leather feel soft and flexible again…
When I rustproved my RAM, like I said, I took five days to do the job completely. I pulled out the headlights, taillights, the plastic fender inner liners, I pride up the rubber treads on top of the back bumper to drench under those rubber treads with fluid film, because my GMC rear bumper was completely covered with rust under those rubber treads.. when I see ram trucks sitting in parking lots, and I see a lot of them, the ones that were not rust proofed with fluid film, everything rusts out…especially around the top of the wheel arches from inside. The tailgates rust out completely, and the doors, and the rocker panels. Why would you not spend 50 or $60 to save a $50,000 investment from rusting out.
In 1977, I bought myself a new Ford Econoline van for hauling motorcycles around. I rust proofed that truck with 50wt new not used motor oil.. I did not do as thorough a job on that Van as I did on my ram, but that Ford Econoline lasted me 31 years. I just sprayed the body and inside the doors of the van. I wish I had sprayed inside the frame, and the windshield frame all the way up to roof,And the brake lines and fuel lines. I might still have that truck…When I sold it for scrap, it’s still red, and only had 67,000 miles on it, but the suspension components & the frame didn’t look trustworthy anymore. No I don’t like that, if I had known when I bought that truck that I would have it 31 years, I would’ve gotten a V-8, with automatic transmission, and air-conditioning. It was a six cylinder three on the tree with no AC..I’ll never do that again.

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beater November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

LPS 3 does not come off as easy

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Edgar Urbina November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Anyone know if you need to wipe down when you put a second coat on since its dirty? Or do you just put the fluid film on top of the dirt?

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alexander UP November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

1:02 the secret has been revealed, must be illuminati.

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Thomas Bartlett November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Most petroleum products repel and lift moisture. Been hot spraying good quality bar oil like summer blend Husqvarna B&C oil since 1978 in northern Vermont and never looked back.. Old School Vermonter from years ago posted this. How many chainsaw bars have you seen rusted? http://www.type2.com/library/body/baroil.htm

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Daryl Usitalo November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

You said you didn't do any undercarriage sprays. Did you still go through any high pressure car washes just without the undercarriage and how often? I'm planning to buy a new Tacoma next year and I live in the U.P. of Michigan where every vehicle rusts away up here eventually. This stuff seems like the ticket to keep rust away as best you can I'm just wondering if i should use a self car wash.

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alherchenreder November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

No issues with the truck being under warranty and headaches from the dealer due to the fluid film?

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Glen W November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

I use fluid film also and love it, On the parts that wash away I use cosmoline or melted wax rings that are used on toilets with some Vaseline mixed in this works the best.

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onenikkione November 25, 2019 at 4:22 am

Our cars always wear out b4 they rust out

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